PHUKET

Next morning a taxi driver was waiting for us at the front desk (thanks to Mrs. Vanida) to take us to the airport. A couple of Thai Airways Airbus hours later we were landing in Phuket – along with what appeared to be half the civilized world on vacation. What a vacation location night mare!

Our minibus sat 12 and was full. As we worked our way from the airport to Patong Beach there were all the signs of rampant, no class, tourism. Signs everywhere in bad English, streets jammed with foreigners of all nationalities – most in ill-fitting swimming suits. The beaches were crowded with people and smoke from what appeared to be an occasional burning tire.

Gradually our van emptied and the driver asked us where we were going. The info station at the airport said there were no hotels under $200 so we should try the Karon Beach area for bungalows. The driver just happened to know his sister’s guest house had a room available for a couple of nights. It had air, hot water and was about $22 per night so we said yes. I noticed the price on the register was less and the driver picked up his 200 Baht for bringing us in.

We dropped our bags, put on our suits and walked the few hundred meters to the beach. It was lined for miles with beach chairs but the sand was beautiful and sloped gradually into the ocean. We were soon talking our first dip in the Andaman Sea!

After a short swim we started walking. The burning tire turned out to be the remains of a Russian yacht that had beached several months ago. A backhoe was digging pieces of it out of the sand and workers were carrying fiberglass hull chunks to the fire. After a couple of miles of walking it was dark and the beach deserted. We watched the remnants of a clouded sunset and talked about motor biking in Utah.

For dinner we tried some fresh crab which were delicious; the cost was about $5. We retired about 10 p.m. managing to evade the forward desk clerk who wanted to know if I had a Thai wife or wanted one. A party was going on just outside our window till late – it was all in German so we don’t know what we missed except for the noise and laughter.

Thursday morning it was time to explore again. We were still sore but rented scooters and set out to chart the island – none of it was left to be explored. Signs everywhere. We only found one secluded beach and it was right next to the oil storage plant. We did catch some good views and could tell some of the other islands were more remote. How to get there was the question. We had options of speedboats, long tail boats, dive boats at every cove.

We kept riding and eventually found our way to a marine aquarium. It was really very nice and we enjoyed an hour in air con looking at all kinds of aquatic life. We ate at a little restaurant and ordered lime fish. It was some sort of sea perch with mushrooms, chicken and basted with lime juice and covered with lime slices. Very tasty.

We found our way into Phuket through the crowded streets of town to the fish pier. No feeling of tourism there. Everyone was watching us as we watched them mending nets, packing ice and readying the fleet of rusty trawlers. One young man came up to us and spoke in English. We couldn’t tell where he was from but it sounded like Vietnam.

We were saddle sore. Neither Al nor I ride bikes this much and our butts were feeling bruised. We pulled into the Sunsail Marina for a cool drink and were stunned at the contrast. This is how the wealthy live. The marina looked like something out of an exclusive California cove. Beautiful 100’ yachts and rows of white sail boats, teakwood piers and the harbor ringed with condo cottages. Most walking around were foreigners with British or Aussie accents. There was a large dry dock area with all kinds of boats up on jacks. Some were being painted; some had the rudders off. Compared to the yard we had just come from with oily water and boat parts stacked everywhere, this was marina heaven. The boats had home ports of Richmond VA, Bristol England, and even one tri-miran from Phoenix, Arizona!

Enough of the bikes and heat. We headed back across the island to our room and air con. Al read and slept while I washed out a few clothes by hand. It got dark and we headed down to the market to check e-mail and look for food. Al got a note from his brother saying his dad was feeling better.

For dinner we surveyed the many restaurants with real life seafood menus. Every eating establishment along the street had a large metal tray filled with ice and packed with fresh crab, lobster, tiger shrimp, and various fin fish. The hostess with her effervescent personality pulled us from the street and helped us pick a tasty catch. We then were guided to a table where the less pleasant staff took the rest of our order.

I wonder what kind of human toll tourism extracts from a community. The number of old, ugly foreigners with Thai women attachments is high. The women always look to have a hard edge. The air is often ripped apart by the scream of a large motorcycle roaring by; more often than not, the rider is a farang (foreigner). The bars and massage parlors are fronted with young inviting hostesses that have to grow old to soon and then do what?

We paid for dinner and walked to the beach to watch the sliver moon gradually extinguish as it set into the humid haze. We stop and pick up a couple of books at a used bookstore and some ice cream. The store manager said, ‘Read this – then I buy it back.’ Both books (mine was Marco Polo and Al’s was the Stallion) have been sold several times by him before.

What to do for the rest of the trip is a problem. We determine that it’s too far to drive (250 Kilometers) to Turantao, some islands in the south. Everything on Phuket is so commercialized.

We stopped into a travel shop where a bubbly young woman helped us narrow our options. The walls were lined with faded brochures and photos of white sand beaches. We decided to go to Phi Phi island but the air conditioned bungalows with ‘sea view’ were completely booked – and so was everything else. We looked at Krabi island and also Racha but finally decided to take a chance on finding a bungalow once we arrived at Phi Phi. The girl said, ‘I think you 80% have bungalow.’ That was good enough for us.

Next morning my alarm went off at 6:30 a.m. We packed and were waiting for the lift to the boat by 7:20. A 12 seat diesel mini van full of farangs pulled up and we were passengers 11 and 12 – that was until we made one more stop and number 13 came walking out. All the bags were arranged on the roof and the baggage boy apologetically slid in to make us four across. We made it fit.

The ferry from Phuket to Phi Phi was outfitted like an airliner – high backed bucket seats, air conditioning and a TV monitor. One big difference was the large plate glass windows. The 35 kilometer crossing takes a couple of hours and we detoured around Phi Phi Le (the small island) for a scenic view of the fantastic cliffs and lagoons.

Rock columns jut straight out of the water. Vegetation covers the top and drapes down the sides. Coves are curtained in green with white and gold sand beaches at the base. The first cove has a string of long tail boats roped together across the entrance. Loenardo di Caprio is starring in a new film called "The Beach" that was currently filming.

While in Bangkok we watched the news about Phi Phi Le which is a Thai national park and the Park Service had agreed to let the movie producer plant 100 coconut trees along the beach for effect. Conservationists were up in arms but the Thai court dismissed the case. What wasn’t well known was that the entire island was deforested at one time anyway and most trees there were man established. The coconut trees will be removed when the film is over but because of the filming we won’t get to see the most beautiful cove on in the islands.

We landed at Tonsai beach and the boat coordinator said he could find us a bungalow. Most everything was sold out so it would be more expensive (1700 Bhat - $47 per night). Walking in the village we had all kinds of offers for ‘air, beach – 1300 B’. Once you get with someone, they can take care of you but it’s all part of a network and there’s a cost. We got our rooms reserved and airline tickets reconfirmed with Korean and were then passed to a long tail boat driver who ferried us to the far north end of the island for 400 B. We found later the going rate was 300 but a one hour boat ride for an extra $2.50 was no big deal.

The bungalows were ok – clean but a bit on the old side. They were on stilts, had bathroom with AT (American Toilet), fridge and supposedly air. We turned it on for a while but only got the fan. After looking outside at the unit we could see why – the condenser was basically a rusted frame – I don’t even think it worked. No worries though; it wasn’t that hot and we had a ceiling fan that could create a small hurricane in the room. When you put it on high, it wobbled so wildly I thought it might come loose and drill one or both of us.

We ate lunch at the beach front café then checked on diving rates. Al considered certifying over the next three days but the dive masters weren’t PADI certified yet. We rented snorkeling gear and started for the water. We knew we weren’t in Utah. The weather and beach for one thing but about half the women were topless.

Snorkeling and diving are such great sensations. Suddenly you can fly with no effort. We kicked out past the sandy area where there were a few small schools of guppy-like fish. I was afraid it was going to be a disappointment after the British Virgin Islands. Beyond the belt of dead coral it turned incredible. There were all kinds of things! All types of coral in the shapes of brains, antlers, beans, and large flat leaves. Fishes of all kinds and colors. Zebra stripes, spots, purples, yellows, blues and silvers. There were several long nosed, slender translucent fish.

We followed along on top of something that looked like it was a cartoon character with big buggy eyes, large black spots and a wide head and short body.

As we swam further out, the reef dropped away into darkness. Swimming out over the edge and seeing nothing below gives you a start – kind of like running off a cliff. Down the walls we could see bigger fish feeding in schools.

Swimming back we came upon feeding schools that moved along as we did. It was just like being one of the fish – as they lined up and moved forward so did we.

Back on shore we laid in the sand and went to sleep with the surf gently lapping at the shoreline. Then back out for another long snorkel. Just when you think you have seen everything, something new shows up. This time we watched clams close and found and abandoned fish trap.

After a warm shower we set out to explore the island. Most of the action was towards the south end and we thought there might be a road or path there. We headed out the back door and within a couple of hundred yards were on the other side of the island. Lots of rocks and cliffs and it looked like some scuba diving was going on as we could see the bubbles coming to the surface.

We searched until we found a rough single track path heading south and followed if for about a mile till we came to another resort, the Phi Phi Village. We had a cool drink, explored some and headed home at a missionary clip to get back to our beach before it got completely dark.

A resort next to ours was having a BBQ buffet and we stopped to view the fresh seafood tray. This one had mixed meat kabobs and the price included rice, soup, salad, vegetables, rolls and fruit so we dined sumptuously for about $12 per person. Clouds had been on the horizon and now a breeze was blowing. A large catamaran had pulled in and dropped anchor and we could see the mast light rocking back and forth with the waves.

I reserved a long tail boat for the next day that we could cancel if the weather was bad. The bungalow apparently wasn’t mosquito proof – there was a dried splat of blood on my pillow the next morning. We started the day with an ABF – actually it was the Thai version of what the Japanese think is an American breakfast. Round fried eggs, half-fried on the bottom and raw on top, canned weiners, a roll and pineapple. Oh well, it was food.

The skies were cloudy and it wasn’t exactly a beautiful day but we went for the boat anyway. Our driver was a long tail boat master. He came to the front desk to fetch us and quietly lead us across the narrow neck of the island to a boat dock on the rocks. There were probably 20 boats there with drivers waiting for the day’s catch of passengers who wouldn’t come because of the gray skies. I wondered how our man got picked for our job.

His boat was tied in line with several others and we stepped across them to get to it. He methodically pulled and coiled the tie downs, hand cranked the engine to a smooth throbbing beat and we were off.

The scenery of the island was still spectacular, even in the mist. The dramatic cliffs, clinging vegetation, stalactites all interspersed with white smooth sand. We ventured into a small bay with one giant jutting rock and anchored up for snorkeling. Again, more discovery. We kicked around the island and then swam the perimeter of the bay looking at giant coral formations and various fish.

As we returned to the boat, our captain had hung a ladder over the side to help us get in. He placed our fins neatly on the side panel and mounted our corresponding masks on the proper set of fins. Everything he did was first class. Other boats needed to be bailed, motors ran rough and spray was flying. Ours was clean, dry and smoothly run.

We continued on around the island venturing along deserted beaches and into secluded coves. At the south end of Phi Phi we left the shelter of the leeward side and ventured over to Phi Phi Le. There we passed a cave with sand floor and a view to the other side of the island. We got in closer to see the ‘beach’ where the movie was being shot but not past the long tail boat barricade.

On the backside of the beach was a cove with several large boats tied up to service the production. One contained a wardrobe we could see through the glass. Another larger ship had several panel trucks on board. A long, makeshift floating pier attached the boats to a hole in the rock that connected through the island to the beach. A steady stream of people streamed ant-like back and forth loaded with boxes and equipment.

The weather was too rough to navigate the windward side of the island so we headed back the way we came. When we cleared the protection of the island cliffs, the waves were up to 4 feet and were cresting. The spray was getting me wet and I grabbed a life vest – mostly for protection from the wind and spray. The captain thinking I was concerned for safety assured me everything was ok and that it was, ‘may ben rye’ – nothing to worry about.

We pulled into the bay on the opposite side of the big island from where we had landed the day before. At this point the island is only about 200 meters wide but right through the center is a string of shops for food, souvenirs, diving and travel arrangements. We lunched on curry and mussaman and followed up with a dessert of rhodies or Thai pancakes as they were called here. It was raining steadily and we were soaked but warm enough not to be chilled.

We bought an aquatic disposable camera and on the way back snorkeled and snapped some underwater photos. The water was full of stinging things that felt like jelly fish but we couldn’t see anything. Without much light it was hard to capture the underwater beauty on film.

Back at the resort, we thanked and tipped our captain and then headed to take some more pictures before turning in the fins. We went in off the rocks and both of us ended up taking a spill into the water due to the big waves coming in. Again lots of stinging things so we didn’t stay long.

A hot shower, reading and napping for most of the afternoon while it rained. For dinner, we ventured next door to the Phi Phi Palm Beach Travel Lodge. They had an all you can eat Italian buffet – complete with live mariachi band for 440 B. Nice place and if I return to Phi Phi in the next couple of years it would be a good place to stay. The elements can wreak havoc on a place pretty fast here. Our place was at the lower end of the scale and the manager said they cater mostly to Japanese in April through July. We went back to the bungalow and talked about work, software, and whether we turn out like our parents because of environment or genetics.

Sunday morning and of course it was absolutely beautiful. The sky was clear and blue and the beach was white with a high tide. We read on the beach in the intense sun, showered and then checked out and arranged for a boat back to Tonsai. There we found some shade and waited till one of the two ferries back to Phuket was ready.

We climbed on top of the ferry and sat in the sun for the two-hour ride back. Everyone on deck was so browned or burned – mostly burned. The sky when we motored out of the bay had been bright and sunny but by the time we reached the Phuket docks it was cloudy and gray. We motored past rows of fishing boats, crowded with work hardened men in the only clothes suitable for work in this climate – under shorts. They stared and called to the white liner of farangs gliding into their polluted, boat strewn waters. Some of them waved wildly to see if they could get a reaction.

There was no dock space available so we maneuvered next to a larger barge and turned around. The channel was narrow and shallow and the jockeying churned up clouds of black mud in the brown waters. We roped up to the barge and everyone scrambled across it to solid ground.

Just as we had pulled up, the clouds above us burst and dumped torrents of water. The docks were a parking lot completely packed with vehicles waiting to transport passengers to various parts of Phuket. Our tall Thai friend who had helped us find a hotel had also arranged us a ride to the airport. ‘I take care of you,’ he kept saying.

With the driving rains, everyone was scrambling for transport cover and we ended up in the same 12 passenger van that had taken us to the ferry. Our van was the last plug in the vehicle jar jam of probably a hundred vans, soi trucks, mini buses and tuktuks. We were guided carefully backwards to a point we could turn around and then were on the road well before the dockside cars were even moving.

Phuket is kind of a pit. There is a complete absence of any type of zoning. As a new development springs up, it seems to be quickly swallowed by the surrounding sea of refuse, rust, and run down gray that this climate produces. Even the Sunsail center had dirt road up to the entrance and next door was a large shack strewn with thousands of motorcycle engines and parts stacked in giant piles.

We got to the airport and found that the next flight to Bangkok was completely full so we were put on standby. We checked the Internet while we were waiting. No mail but we confirmed our hotel in Bangkok for the last night in Thailand.

Getting on standby was no problem even through there were about ten of us. The plane was a 747 and probably with some stuck on an island or in traffic somewhere there were at least 10 out of 450+ seats available.

In Bangkok, Alan was finally able to get the mission president’s telephone number. He talked to his wife but he was at a meeting. We had the Thai hospitality counter find us a hotel close to the airport. It was called the Jumbotel and looked great from the brochure and included ABF for 2000 Baht. It wasn’t that great but would do. We killed the one mosquito we saw flying around the room.

We stopped by the Bangkok Air office and even through it was closed, met a couple of employees that told us the first flight to Seam Reap was at 8 a.m. and there still were seats available. We needed to call at 6:00 a.m. however to reserve seats. This might be a bit of a challenge. At the hotel we learned that the only airport transportation (included in the room) was at 6 a.m. The desk clerk agreed to hold this shuttle for five minutes while we confirmed we could get tickets but no longer than five.

We got up at 5:30, dressed and packed and I called the airline. ‘Yes’ we could go but we needed to get there right away. We raced downstairs to the shuttle and ended up waiting ten minutes for someone who had overslept.

Fortunately the fellow who’s flight seemed most urgent was at the same terminal as Bangkok Air International. We got to the desk and started the long process of manually issuing tickets ($312 US). You also need a visa to get into Cambodia and there were three pages of forms to fill out and they required a passport photo! Both of us had thought about extra pictures but didn’t bring any. While Al found a bathroom, I found a photo shop inside the duty free area. ‘Yes’ they could do passport photos. They were digital however and required a complete 8x11 page to print at 600 Bhat per page. We now both had 35 extra passport photos but we were on our way.